Palace of Memory

In a tranquil corner of Italy, four hundred years’ worth of frescoes in a former aristocratic residence see the light once more

Atmosphere (and a good dose of quirk) abounds in the living room of Mazzini 31, the latest of Patrizio Fradiani's properties.
Atmosphere (and a good dose of quirk) abounds in the living room of Mazzini 31, the latest of Patrizio Fradiani's properties.

It’s not every day you get to renovate a palazzo—much less one in the village of your maternal ancestors. But Patrizio Fradiani, an Italian-born architect and designer whose specialty is bringing historic homes back to life in unexpected ways, got to do just that.

Soft washes of lime-based paint in an upstairs vestibule leading to the main living areas.

What began as a creative side project has turned into a lucrative business for the Chicago-based Fradiani, whose lovingly transformed vacation properties now include a thatched-roof compound on the Pacific coast of Mexico and an ancient stone villa in an Italian hill town accessible only by footbridge. “We wanted to give people the kind of experience we look for on our own travels,” he says. This particular restoration, however, went deeper still.

Located an hour and a half south of Florence in the Umbrian town of Monteleone d’Orvieto—where the main piazza is named after Fradiani’s great-great-grandfather—the medieval structure, now reborn as a luxury rental known as Mazzini 31, was an aristocratic dwelling in the 1800s but had been carved up into humbler apartments since its heyday. Uninhabited since the 1980s, the dark and dingy residence was in a serious state of disrepair when Fradiani and his partner, Mark, purchased it in 2012. Yet it didn’t take long for the couple’s leap of faith to pay off. Once the restoration began in earnest and hundreds of years’ worth of plaster, paint, and wallpaper were peeled away, an abundance of frescoes revealed themselves on the ceilings and walls of almost every room. “What felt like an overwhelming effort began to excite us as more and more details began to reappear,” Fradiani says.

We wanted to give people the kind of experience we look for on our own travels.

–patrizio fradiani

The overarching vision: to bring “new light into the space in every sense.” In contrast to the old-world atmosphere created by the frescoed walls and original terrazzo floors, Fradiani installed contemporary design elements such as a translucent corridor of glowing chartreuse glass. (Similar glass panels serve as headboards in two of the three guest suites, the beds dressed with crisp white linens.) The decor strikes a balance between streamlined and ornate—a sleek white sectional is juxtaposed with an intricately carved fireplace and gilt-framed mirror in the living room, and a crystal chandelier is suspended in a bathroom above a modern soaking tub. Moments of humor and idiosyncrasy surface throughout: white shag stools, towel hooks shaped like bull heads, even the occasional dinosaur figurine.

Numbers and letters serve as decorative objects around the home.
A reproduction of a famous Caravaggio painting in the library.
STEAL THIS LOOK

We may never be the proud owner of a palazzo, but we can still incorporate some of Patrizio Fradiani’s ideas for everyday decor

  • CHINAWARE CHANDELIER

    Transform mismatched porcelain dishes into one-of-a-kind light fixtures. Drill holes through the pieces and thread them into a stack using a store-bought cord kit.

  • SCARF PILLOWS

    Turn textiles made by regional artisans into cushion covers by taking them to your local tailor or dry cleaner. It’s a functional and easy way to incorporate travel souvenirs into daily use.

  • SCULPTURAL VIGNETTES

    Collect ephemera such as vintage bottles, doll heads, candlesticks, and toy figures from flea markets and yard sales. Then group them together in intriguing ways that add character to bookshelves and mantels.

A door tucked underneath the grand central staircase leads to the former stables, now a private spa area with a pool and hot tub. Nearby is one of Fradiani’s trademarks: a wine cellar hewn into layers of volcanic and sedimentary rock and stocked with more than 300 bottles of Italian vintages. It’s a natural spot to pause for guests whose evening plans involve nothing more than a lazy recap of the day’s adventures on a terrace overlooking olive orchards and Monte Cetona in the distance.

For Fradiani, who still nurtures memories of childhood visits to his grandparents’ hometown, the restored palazzo only serves to strengthen the connection to his distinguished forebear, Pietro Bilancini, a 19th-century poet and literary critic. “I had an intriguing sense of belonging when I came back to Monteleone—as if I could feel the souls of my ancestors roaming the streets,” he says. He returned earlier this year to open the property with two of his nieces in tow, a vital link to family history and to hundreds of years of tradition. As he explains, “It felt as if something in my life had come full circle.”

Palace of Memory
IN AND AROUND TOWN

The sleepy village of Monteleone d’Orvieto (population: 1,500) and its surroundings are full of hidden gems for those who know where to look. Here are four not to miss

 

  • LA SCARZUOLA

    The Franciscan convent was built in 1218 but meticulously restored in the 20th century by Milanese architect Tomaso Buzzi, who superimposed on it his theatrical, surrealist-influenced vision.

  • LOCAL GROCERY

    A visit to Matteo the grocer, steps from Mazzini 31’s front door, is one of the town’s true highlights. Not to worry if your Italian is nonexistent—Matteo excels at charades.

  • TEATRO DEI RUSTICI

    Right off the main piazza, the tiny theater preserves the centuries-old tradition of staging simple plays with amateur actors, particularly during festivals.

  • TRATTORIA COPPETTA BRUNO

    A 10-minute drive away in Città Della Pieve, the bustling family-run restaurant specializes in grilled meats paired with fine Tuscan wines.

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